Friday, 20 June 2014

Camera settings I used

The picture of the crucible I lowered the angle in which i took it so as to give a more powerful feel to it,  i also used the reflection and bars on the windows to make leading lines onto the higher up name of the crucible

This photo I used a long exposure time in order for all of the light to travel into the camera lens, I also wanted to use a long exposure in order to show the passage of time


This photo i tried to create a shallow depth of field and only the close items being in focus, this photo was also there with leading lines into the distance


In this photo I focused on using leading lines with the rail tracks leading on to the future


This photo i took using the rule of 3 in mind, each of the towers works as a line breaking up the picture into 3


This photo I took at a lower angle to again give a feeling of power or higher being


When taking this photo I used leading lines to draw the viewers eyes into the middle and the big building


This photo I attempted to use leading lines which draw your eyes round to the building in the distance, but also i used a shallow depth of field to slow down the image almost and give a strange feeling of motionless


The picture i used leading lines along the rail moving along onto the tracks at the bottom


This photo I used the rule of 3 with the big balls and also a lower angle to give once again a feeling of power and done


This final photo I took in the moment and felt that the bollards were almost splitting the photo and the tunnel gives a sense of focus and something moving into them




What all of the settings mean:

In traditional photography ISO was the indication of how sensitive a film was to light. it was measured in numbers (you've probably seen them on films - 100, 200, 400, 800 etc). The lower the number the lower the sensitivity of the film and the finer the grain in the shots you're taking

In digital photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography - the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer grain.


Shutter speed is the speed in which that the shutter closes and reopens allowing light to enter the camera, the longer the shutter speed on the camera the more light is allowed into the lens, it also will
also cause the image to be blurred because things will have moved since the initial lens shut went off. An example of this would be in sports photography you need to have a quick shutter speed so that you can get a crisp photo of a fast moving object 

Aperture is the size of the iris inside the camera, the lower the aperture then the bigger the iris and so more light is let into the camera, opposing this if the aperture is a bigger number then iris is going to be smaller and let less light in. 

Monday, 2 June 2014

Final Photos

The Inner Crucible


Alone in red streaks


Tube of Moisture


Rails of Deception


The Four Towers


Tunnel of Truth


Hidden Colour


Green Sheffield


Water Beneath 


Bridge of Change


Great Balls of Colour

Friday, 9 May 2014

Edited photos vs unedited

The following are all photos that i have been out and taken myself, all of the photos i have then brought into photoshop and edited in someway or another. if thats just editing the general feel of the photo and giving it a slight tint or maybe changing the photo make it  more visually appealing:

Edited:
Unedited:

As you can clearly see with this first image i took it and looked at the different colours that are in the graffiti, i then took them and enhanced the different colours to make them more vibrant and stand out stronger.


Edited:

Unedited:
 This photo I didn't feel like needed edited all to much, so i just made the picture look warmer and have a feeling which creates a nicer feel while looking at the image.

Edited:

Unedited:
In this photo as you can see I edited the big balls as you can see making them different colours which I did by just putting a layer of colour over them and then lowering the opacity which made them look like the actual colour.

Edited:
Unedited:
This photo I took and edited slightly, like the last one i took and made it look warmer and increased the clarity of it to give it a more definite feel to it. I also edited it by increasing the vibrancy of the colours to  define parts of it even more.

Edited:
Unedited:
 On this photo i was not sure what to do with it and felt that nothing was really needed to improve it, so in the end i decided that not editing the photo would be better.

Edited:

Unedited:
This photo my friend decided to stick his fingers up behind his back which ruined the photo, i then edited this to get rid of the fingers and also changed the contrast, brightness and the vibrance of the photos.


Edited:
Unedited:

I felt that this photo didn't need editing at all, so I left it how I took the picture in the first place.


Edited:
Unedited:
This photo i felt needed brighting up a bit so I changed the brightness, exposure, contrast, vibrance and temperature of the photo

Edited:
Unedited:
This photo I edited so that the only colours that show through are green and aqua, this was done by lowering the saturation on all of the different colours except the ones i wished to keep.

Edited:
Unedited:
This photo is also the same thing that i did with the pervious one, lowering the saturation on all the colours except red, I found that it became too vibrant along the parts so only selected the traffic to be red also.

Edited:
Unedited:
This photo didn't need much editing, other than the woman walking on the path i increased the temperature, contrast, exposure and brightness.










Editing photos







This is the process i went though to edit the colours and shadows of the photos and also to edit out the fingers of my friends to make it look like his hands are behind his back. The I took it into the initial screen because its easier to edit all the colours, I took the photo in Raw which means that its easier to edit.